Emily in Paris Costume & Hair designers on Breaking the Rules of Style

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After several seasons of Emily in Paris, costume designer Marylin Fitoussi and hair department head Carole Nicolas have had plenty of room to experiment. Emily may be more comfortable in Paris than when audiences first met her, but becoming more polished has never meant losing her signature bold choices.

For Fitoussi, preserving that “Cooper twist” remains essential. Emily’s wardrobe has matured along with her, but the goal has never been to transform her into the perfect Parisian or chase the current trends.

“She’s much more in control, in power, much more mature, much more Parisian. But keeping her essence.”

Lily Collins’ shorter bob presented Nicolas with a different kind of challenge. Rather than limiting what she could do with Emily’s hair, the cut became a new starting point, pushing her to play with texture, shape, and styling in ways that still felt true to the character.

It also opened up new possibilities for Fitoussi. A hairstyle could change how an outfit came together, just as a particularly bold dress might call for something more understated from the hair department.

That constant exchange is a major part of how the show’s distinct visual style comes together.

“It takes a village, you know, to create what we create.”

Costume, hair, and makeup are rarely treated as separate pieces. Fitoussi might arrive with a vintage hair accessory she’s found and hand it over to Nicolas to experiment with, while an idea from the hair department can completely change how an outfit is ultimately styled.

Some of their favorite choices don’t come together until the final moments.

“Sometimes it’s the last minute who gives the best look.”

Few characters offer more room to play than Mindy. Working closely with Ashley Park since the first season, Nicolas has been able to lean into the character’s performer side and embrace looks that don’t necessarily need to follow the rules of everyday styling. Mindy can be sitting at home and still look ready to step onstage.

“She broke every rule in the book.”

Moving part of the story to Rome brought a new set of possibilities. With work taking less of the spotlight and relationships coming to the forefront, Fitoussi softened the silhouettes and color palettes, stepping away from some of the sharper tailoring associated with Paris. Emily’s wardrobe became more relaxed and romantic, while Nicolas incorporated wet looks, slicked-back styles, and looser textures that suited the sun, sea, and Vespas surrounding the characters.

Sylvie gets her own chance to loosen up. In one memorable moment, she leaves an argument behind and takes off alone in a boat, her hair blowing freely as she goes. The look still carries the confidence associated with Sylvie, just without some of the precision of her usual Paris styling.

Fitoussi faced a very different challenge when the script called for Marcello’s fashion collection. Suddenly, she wasn’t only dressing the characters, but creating an entire line inspired by the Palio di Siena and Polo Ralph Lauren.

It was exactly the kind of assignment she has come to expect from creator Darren Star.

“One day he said to me, ‘Marylin, you inspire me to challenge you.’”

Those challenges have kept the creative process unpredictable even after several seasons. A new city, a shorter haircut, or an elaborate fashion show can completely change what Fitoussi and Nicolas have to work with, leaving plenty of space for the unexpected ideas that have become part of the show’s identity.

Sometimes that means knowing when to pull a look back. Other times, in true Emily in Paris fashion, it means deciding that more really is more.

“More is more, and less is a bore.”

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